A step-by-step guide to taking apart metal, wooden, platform, storage and adjustable bed frames without stripping bolts, cracking rails or losing the hardware you'll need to put it back together.
Taking a bed apart looks like it should take ten minutes. Then a bolt rounds off, a side rail cracks where the screw hole sits, or you get to the new place and discover the bag of hardware is still on the old bedroom floor. Almost all of that is avoidable, and it comes down to doing things in the right order.
This guide covers the general method plus the specifics for metal, wooden, platform, storage and adjustable frames.
Tools you'll likely need: an Allen key set (the one that shipped with the bed is usually undersized — a proper set is better), a Phillips and flathead screwdriver, an adjustable wrench or socket set, a rubber mallet, and penetrating oil for anything rusted.
Work bolts loose in stages rather than fully removing one at a time — back each one off a few turns first, then go around and remove them. It keeps the frame square and stops the last bolt from binding under load.
Basic steel frames usually use hook-and-slot brackets rather than bolts: the rail hooks drop into slots on the headboard bracket. To release them you lift the rail straight up, which often means tapping upward from underneath with a rubber mallet because gravity and years of weight have seated them tightly. Don't pry sideways — that bends the hooks and they'll never seat properly again. Folding metal frames simply hinge closed once the center legs are unclipped.
If bolts are rusted, apply penetrating oil and wait fifteen minutes rather than forcing them. A rounded bolt head on a proprietary frame is a much bigger problem than a delay.
Most wooden beds use either bolts through the rail into threaded inserts, or cam-lock fittings. Turn cam locks a half turn counterclockwise until the arrow points to the open position, then lift the panel away — don't keep turning past that point or you'll strip the housing. Support each panel as it comes free; wood splits at the screw holes when a panel is allowed to swing on its remaining fastener.
These rely heavily on cam locks and dowels, and the dowels are glued into one panel and friction-fit into the other. Pull panels apart squarely rather than rocking them, or the dowels will snap off inside the hole. Keep the original Allen key — it's sized to the fittings. Assembly instructions for most models are available on the manufacturer's site, and running them in reverse is the safest approach.
Empty and remove every drawer first, then the drawer slides if they're screwed to the rails. The frame is much heavier than it looks with the drawer boxes still in place, and drawer fronts are the parts most likely to get scratched. Keep slide hardware bagged separately — left and right slides are often not interchangeable, so label them.
Unplug it and let the base return to flat first — never disassemble one in a raised position. Most adjustable bases aren't meant to be taken apart beyond removing the legs and, on split models, unlatching the two halves. Disconnect the power supply and control box cables gently and coil them with the base. If yours folds for transport, the manufacturer's procedure is worth finding rather than guessing.
Band the rails together with the slats, wrap anything with a finish in moving blankets, and keep panels vertical rather than stacked flat under weight. If the frame is going into storage for a while, keep it somewhere dry — particleboard and MDF panels swell irreversibly if they get damp, and the same goes for the mattress, which is covered in our guide to storing a mattress properly.
If the frame is coming apart because it's finally worn out rather than because you're moving, it's worth checking whether the foundation underneath is still doing its job too. A sagging foundation or box spring will make even a new mattress feel wrong, and the two wear out on similar timelines.
Remove the mattress and slats, unclip or unbolt the center support legs, then release the side rails from the headboard and footboard brackets. Most basic metal frames use hook-and-slot brackets — lift the rail straight up, tapping from underneath with a rubber mallet if it's seated tight, rather than prying sideways.
Work the assembly instructions in reverse using the supplied Allen key. Turn cam locks a half turn counterclockwise to release, remove slats and the mid-beam first, then separate panels by pulling straight apart so the wooden dowels don't snap in their holes.
Usually yes. Most moving companies expect beds to be taken apart, and full-size frames rarely clear doorways or stairwells assembled. Some movers will do it for an added fee — worth asking in advance, since it also shifts responsibility for any damage.
Support each panel while you free its last fastener, back all bolts off partially before removing any of them fully, and never pry at a joint. Wood splits at screw holes when a panel hangs from one remaining fastener, so a second pair of hands matters more with wood than with metal.
Empty and remove all drawers first, then unscrew the drawer slides from the rails and bag the left and right hardware separately — they're often not interchangeable. Only then take the frame itself apart in the usual order.
A simple metal frame takes fifteen to twenty minutes. A wooden platform or storage bed with drawers is more like forty-five minutes to an hour, and adjustable bases depend entirely on the model.
If the old frame is coming apart because a new bed is arriving, we can handle the heavy part. Our delivery team offers free white-glove setup across Los Angeles — they'll assemble the new frame, position the mattress and take the old set away. Not sure what you need yet? Take our sleep quiz and we'll narrow it down before you shop.
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